Pets World

Dog licking - Why Dogs Lick by Dr. Stanley Coren

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Thu, 17 Jan 2008 14:16:00 +0000

…As the puppies grow older, they begin to lick and clean themselves and their littermates. This mutual licking and grooming serves social functions. Obviously, it helps keep the puppies clean, but in the process it helps strengthen the bonds between the puppies. The actual mechanism that builds this affection is mutual satisfaction. A puppy can have companions get at those hard-to-reach places, like ears and backs and faces, and can pay them back by licking their littermates in their inaccessible regions. Since friends and familiars groom friends and familiars as a considerate gesture, the very act of licking another dog develops significance as a means of communication. Licking thus shifts from being a utilitarian and useful act to becoming a ritualized gesture. The meaning of this gesture at this time in a puppy's life involves goodwill and acceptance. In effect, each puppy is saying, "Look how friendly I am." As the puppy matures, the message sent by licking continues to be friendly but is widened to also mean, "I'm no threat," and perhaps the submissive plea, "Please accept me and be kind."

Licking takes on a further meaning a bit later in the puppy's life, usually around the time that it is becoming less dependent on its mother's milk. In the wild, when a mother wolf returns from hunting, she will have already fed herself on her quarry. When she enters the den, the puppies gather around her and begin to lick her face. To a romantic, this may look like a loving greeting with all of the puppies overjoyed at mother's return after her absence of several hours. They are seen as simply kissing her in happiness and relief. The actual purpose of all of this face licking, however, is much more functional. Wild canines have a well-developed regurgitation reflex, and the puppies lick their mother's face and lips to cause her to vomit up some food. It is most convenient for the mother to carry food in her stomach rather than trying to drag things back to the den in her mouth. Furthermore, this partially digested material makes ideal dining for young puppies.

It is interesting to note that our domestic dogs actually have a reduced sensitivity for their regurgitation reflex in comparison to wolves or jackals. Puppy-induced regurgitation is not as often seen in dogs unless the pups are not being fed well. When it does occur, it is more likely to occur in sharp-faced breeds that appear to be more similar to wild canines, such as the wolf.

Understanding the development of licking behavior helps to interpret another place where it occurs. Face licking in adult canines can be a sign of respect or deference to a more dominant dog. The dog doing the licking usually lowers its body to make itself smaller, and looks up, adding to the effect of juvenile behavior. The dog receiving the face licks shows its dominance by standing tall to accept the gesture, but does not lick the other dog in return.

Now when your dog tries to lick your face, you should have a better idea of what he's trying to communicate. He may simply be hungry and asking for a snack. Obviously, you won't regurgitate some food at that signal, but you might respond affectionately and perhaps give him a treat, such as a dog biscuit. He may be communicating submission and pacification-the adult version of goodwill in puppies. Basically, he is saying, "Look, I'm just like a puppy who is dependent on big adults like you. I need your acceptance and help." Alternatively, he may be showing respect and deference to you as a more dominant dog in his pack..."

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Thu, 17 Jan 2008 06:49:00 +0000

Pet Tips:WINTER PET CARE TIPS

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 14:14:00 +0000

It's grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-ry cold here in Southwestern Lower Michigan, and the snow is piling high. Even though some of us love to play in it, that snow can be real scary stuff. If you're just little, like Miss Mouse the Kitten, you can be buried before you leave your back porch. Even the big guys like Socks, Dillon, and DomiNoe have trouble navigating through the drifts. Please, Pet Lovers, use a little common sense in this wintery wonderland:

Make sure all "outdoor" dogs have a warm, dry doghouse, with a flap-type door and straw to snuggle in. In this weather, there is no such thing as an "outdoor" cat!

Bring ALL pets into the house when the temperatures drop!

Feed your pets a little more. Like people, they burn more calories in the cold, both to keep warm and because exercise is more strenuous when running through the snow. The more your pet is outside, the more extra fuel he'll need.

Be sure your pet has plenty of fresh water to drink. Pets, like people, lose moisture through breathing, and the effects of cold temperatures are magnified by dehydration. Keep water bowls free of snow and ice.

Notice that your skin is drier and flakier during the winter? Your pet's skin may dry out, too, causing his coat to lose insulating ability. If you notice flaking skin ("doggie dandruff") or a lusterless coat, ask your vet about adding a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil to his food.

Keep an eye on your pets when you put them outside to "do their business." Wind chills cut through short fur just as fast as they do through your street clothes, and even tough paw pads can be frostbitten. Use pet sweaters and boots that fit well but leave plenty of freedom of movement for walking, running, playing, and…er, going, if your pet will tolerate them, and don't leave animals outside too long! If the pet is shivering or limping--even if having a great time playing-- get him or her into the house immediately! If you don't, you may end up carrying him/her.

When the snow starts piling up, shovel paths and a bathroom area in your yard. Some people make a game of it with their dogs, adding to the paths each time they go outside to form runs and mazes that they can enjoy together.

If your dog insists on going "walkies" regardless of the weather, don't go too far when it's really cold, and clean off Fido's feet when you've been walking on plowed streets and salted sidewalks. Salt and road chemicals can burn those pads, and they don't do the digestive tract any good when licked off paws, either. Don't use salt or chemicals in dog pens or play areas!

Everybody has heard about the dangers of anti-freeze and windshield de-icer, but until pets quit dying from lapping up spills in their owners' driveways, the message bears repeating. These products smell sweet, taste good to your dog or cat, and even as little as a teaspoonful can kill (depending on the size of the pet--or child). Symptoms include an appearance of "being drunk:" lack of coordination, vomiting, depression, and increased water intake and urination. Call your vet immediately if you suspect anti-freeze poisoning; these chemicals kill in a matter of 4 - 8 hours or less! Even if the pet seems to be getting better, irreparable kidney damage may have already occurred. Of course you're careful yourself or use an animal-friendly anti-freeze, but be aware that others aren't always as knowledgeable or conscientious. Keep your pets away from any spills you might encounter when you're out and about.

If you see an animal left out in the cold, please speak to its owner, or notify your local police or animal welfare agency! Difficult as it may be, when talking to neglectful pet owners, don't be accusatory or belligerent. Get your point across conversationally, if you can, and in a friendly manner. Ignorance is curable by education.

Fall: Halloween Pet Safety Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 14:10:00 +0000

The nights are getting chilly, the leaves are falling, the kids are back to school, and it'll soon be Halloween. What a great time of year! Animal Aid would like to help you enjoy fall with your pet.

First of all, if you have school-age children, don't be impatient if your dog or cat seems to be demanding more attention from you these days. He or she got used to having the entire "pack" at home during the summer vacation, and may be lonely for "his" or "her" children. Give the pet an extra ear scratch or tummy rub every once in a while, or just talk to him or her as you go about your daily routine! Also, keep him/her in the house when the kids leave for school so that he/she isn't tempted to follow children or buses.

Speaking of Halloween--Animal Aid will not be adopting out animals between 25 - 31 October. Also, if you share your home with all-black, all-white, or mixed black and white dogs and cats: keep a close eye on your pets, as there is a disturbingly high incidence of animals of these colors disappearing around Halloween. Please, PLEASE do NOT give pets of these colors away "Free to Good Home", particularly at this time of year! Believe it or not, there are some crazy people out there who will "sacrifice" black, white, or black and white animals in their All Hallows Eve "ceremonies!"

No doubt about it, Halloween can be a scary time for pets. As much as you and your children want to include them in your own celebrations, remember that pets really don't understand what's going on around them. Look at Halloween from a pet's point of view:

There are some very sudden changes in the normally well-ordered household--maybe strangely-pitched music, weird noises, odd clothing, an alteration in schedules, and lots of excitement.

For humans, scary is good at Halloween. But does your dog realize the difference between "good" scary and "threatening" scary? He may try to protect you from those unusual sounds and noisy, costumed strangers banging at your door.

Wow, that front door is opening and closing a lot. Even if your pet doesn't view Trick or Treaters as dangerous invaders in his domain, he may decide he wants to go home with one of them--or, just run out and play with the entire group!

All right, so your dog or cat isn't afraid of these costumed strangers. However, many children ARE afraid of dogs or cats, and meeting one of these dreaded creatures at a door where they expect only candy can be traumatic.

And look at all that candy! You're probably munching down yourself as you hand it out to Trick or Treaters, and your pet will be looking up at you with those great, big, loving eyes. Resist. Give him a dog biscuit or cat treat instead, and remind your children not to share their own bounty. Sugar isn't good for dogs, and chocolate can be toxic.

That full bag of Junior's sitting on the floor or the edge of the counter can be mighty tempting. You-know-who is going to want to check it out thoroughly, and will steal goodies if he can. Put the treats away where your pet can't get himself into trouble!

You found a great pet costume, and Fido or Puss really loves being dressed up, or adds just the right touch to your child's costume? OK, if he has to go along Trick or Treating, it's best to keep the pet on a short leash, away from other animals or children that he doesn't know. (If Fido or Puss HATES being dressed up--don't force the issue just because you think it's cute.)

Be sure that the pet can walk, see, and pant in his costume (not to mention, being able to respond to the calls of nature), and put reflective tape on both his costume and your child's. Do a "dress rehersal" to assure yourself that your child can successfully juggle the animal's leash, his own treat bag and costume, and interacting with his friends.

And if that cute pet costume fastens with rubber bands, be absolutely certain that those rubber bands are all removed. If mistakenly left on the pet, rubber bands quickly burrow into the animal's skin.

Quite frankly, when it's Trick or Treat time, most pets prefer a quiet room and a favorite toy. But, if you want your pet to be an active participant in the festivities, your knowledge of possible dangers, and a little common sense, can assure a safe, fun Halloween for everyone!

Beware of Heat Stroke

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 13:59:00 +0000

Wow, with the Fourth of July, we really know that summer is here! And is it HOT! If you can walk across a blacktop parking lot in the steamy midafternoon heat and not feel like you're melting into a puddle, you're definitely in the minority. But have you considered the toll this heat and humidity may be taking on your pet?

Dog owners, in particular, love to share all of their summer activities with their furry friends. Pets go along to the shopping mall, to loll on the beach, to the Art Fair in the park and Venetian Festival on the Bluff. And dogs love to be with their People--even if it puts their lives at risk. Yes, puts their lives at risk. That happy, endearing, tongue-lolling grin may also be a warning of impending heat stroke, and just as with people, severe heat stroke will cause nausea, loss of consciousness, irreparable brain damage, and, finally, death.

Remember that blacktop parking lot? You've seen the heat waves shimmering up off it. You've felt the heat right through the bottom of your shoes, maybe even had to clean off bits of melted tar when you got home. Now, imagine walking barefoot down a blacktopped street. That's what you're asking your dog to do when you take him to events uptown. Ouch! And, hey. How hot is that beach sand he has to lie down in?

Oh, you only walk in the grass? Good for you. But, have you noticed that you tire easily, and that you get very, very thirsty? Guess what? Your dog will tire more easily and become dehydrated from panting, too, compounded by the stress of being surrounded by so much activity (he'll want to see it all) and all those people (who must be there just to pet him). Many owners don't even realize that their dogs are overheated, thirsty, and just plain terrified of the crowds and confusion!

So, you'll leave Fido in the car, right? Wrong! Even with the windows open, how hot is that vehicle when you come back to it? Like climbing into an oven, right? And you want to leave your Best Friend in there? Not even for a few minutes. Here are the boring statistics--but keep reading, because this info may keep you from loving your dog to death.

On an 85 degree day, the temperature inside your car, even with the windows open a bit, will climb to 102 degrees in 10 minutes! After half an hour, it will go up to 120 degrees or even higher! On a 90 degree day, temps in that car can top 160 degrees faster than you can walk around the block. We won't even talk about the back of a pickup truck, "in the fresh air," with no shade. If you really love your dog, leave him at home, in a nice, cool, place, with plenty of fresh water to drink.

In fact, if it's an exceptionally hot day, keep your dog or cat in the house with you, a fan, and/or the air conditioning, maybe even some frozen-bullion dog treats (low-sodium beef or chicken bullion cubes dissolved in water and frozen in an ice cube tray). When your dog has to go out, monitor him. Don't let him play hard or lie on the deck in the sun too long. That ground heats up fast, the shade offers little protection when the temps top 90 and the humidity soars, and your vet can tell you all sorts of horror stories about well-meaning owners who let their dogs out "just for a minute," got involved in something else--and forgot Fido. Some people leave a wading pool full of cool water out for their dogs to splash in--which is OK, as long as your dog likes water, and the water in the pool isn't sun-warmed to tea temperature. Even then, a general rule is, if it's too hot outside for you, it's too hot outside for your pet.

Yeah, but animals can handle the heat better than humans, right? Whatever gave you that idea? A dog's normal body temperature is 101.5 to 102.2 degrees Fahrenheit. A body temp of 107 - 108 degrees for a dog would be equivalent to, say, 104 - 105 or so in a human. Not only that, but dogs don't cool themselves by sweating, as their People do, but by evaporation through panting. As for cats--well, below is Crash, an Animal Aid rescue. As a kitten, he was found in a stifling attic, his mother and siblings dead, nearly dead himself from heat stroke and severe dehydration. As a consequence, he suffered brain damage--it was predicted that he'd never be able to walk or eat by himself. It's only thanks to the perseverance and dedication of his adopted family that he now "walks, eats, and drinks by himself, and rules the house." He does have coordination problems, though, hence his name, Crash.

With the right combination of circumstances, your pet can suffer heat stroke even if you do all the do'sand don't all the don'ts. A normal-length walk or run can end in tragedy, and one Boston Terrier nearly died in the car as it sped down the highway on a spring vacation trip. His People weren't even uncomfortable, but it was hot, and the dog was stressed. Luckily, there was a vet clinic just off the freeway in the town they were passing through. The vet told them that short-nosed dogs, such as the bulldog breeds, are often more susceptible to the heat. Surprisingly, short-haired dogs can be, too, as are very young or older animals and animals with health problems.

How do you recognize heat stroke in your pet? He'll pant like crazy, become exhausted or agitated, start upchucking. At this point, you can usually cool him down by giving him ice cubes to lick (cold water will upset his stomach worse and hasten dehydration), sponging him down with a wet towel, and letting him lie in front of a fan. In extreme cases, after the previous symptoms manifest themselves, his gums will take on a grayish tinge, then his tongue will turn blue, then he'll lose consciousness. Take immediate action! Immerse him in cold water or hose him down with a gentle but soaking spray and direct that fan on him. Get his body temperature down first, then call your vet! If you do these in reverse order, it may be too late. It would be a very good idea to print this page and discuss it with your vet beforehand, just to be prepared.

Really, though, just a little common sense is all it takes to ensure a trauma-free summer with your favorite companion. And maybe a trip to Tastee Freeze for ice cream...!

Dog vaccinations - Why we need it??

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 03:04:00 +0000

Our pet’s health is extremely important to us. As a result, we try to do everything possible to ensure that they do not get sick. One of the most important and effective ways to prevent infectious diseases is to vaccinate our furry friends on a regular basis. Many devastating diseases, such as rabies and canine distemper, are now almost completely preventable with the use of an appropriate vaccination protocol.

Puppies get their protection from diseases via their vaccinated mother’s milk. The puppies must suckle immediately after they are born to receive the optimal immunity to diseases, and this protection lasts for just a few weeks after they are weaned. Puppies must then be vaccinated at 8 weeks of age with the core vaccines, with boosters given at 12 and 16 weeks.

The vaccines given to puppies and adult dogs consist of core and non-core vaccines. The core vaccines are given to all dogs, and represent some of the more significant infectious diseases. These vaccines include: Rabies, Canine Distemper Virus, Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, and Canine Parvovirus. The non-core vaccines are catered more towards the lifestyle of the dog, meaning that their administration is dependent more on the risk of exposure to the disease. The vaccines that are available include: Bordatella bronchiseptica (Kennel Cough), Leptospirosis, and Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme Disease).

Core Vaccinations
Rabies
The Rabies virus is transmitted by the bite of an infected animal, most commonly bats, raccoons, skunks, and foxes. It causes a fatal brain and spinal cord infection, and signs of disease can vary from depression and dementia to aggressiveness. The virus can be shed for up to 14 days before signs of infection are apparent. The virus can be shed by the infected animal for a variable length of time, ranging from days to months. This disease is not only fatal to the infected animal, but is a considerable public health issue because it can be transmitted in the same manner to humans. Vaccination against Rabies is generally required by law, and is done once at 16 weeks of age and then boostered once a year. Depending on public health regulations, new three-year vaccines may now be used by your veterinarian.

Canine Distemper Virus
Distemper in dogs was once very common, but thanks to widespread vaccination, has now become quite rare and almost unheard of in vaccinated dogs. This virus affects multiple organ systems and can involve the brain. Again, signs of infection can vary and include discharge from the eyes and nose, coughing, vomiting, and diarrhea; neurological signs soon follow, progressing to trouble walking and seizures. Treatment is usually futile and the prognosis for survival is poor, which is why vaccination against this disease is so important. This vaccine is given at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, and then boostered once a year from then on.

Adenovirus Type 2
Canine Adenovirus Type 2 is a component of a syndrome known as Kennel Cough, characterized by a hacking cough, wheezing, and difficulty breathing. This vaccine also protects against Infectious Canine Hepatitis, an often acutely fatal disease that causes destruction of the liver. This vaccine is given to puppies along with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, and then boostered yearly.

Parainfluenza
This virus causes a respiratory infection known as Canine Infectious Tracheobronchitis, and is another major component of Kennel Cough. It is acquired by close contact with other infected dogs, most commonly at boarding facilities, dog parks, and puppy classes. Signs to watch for include: coughing, gagging, and retching. This vaccine is given in combination with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, and then boostered once a year from then on.

Canine Parvovirus
Canine Parvoviral Enteritis is a serious and not uncommon disease in unvaccinated puppies. The virus destroys the cells in the intestines, causing vomiting, diarrhea, and intestinal bleeding. Immune suppression can also result when the virus infects the bone marrow. For some unknown reason, there is evidence that Doberman Pinchers, Rottweilers, Pit Bulls, and Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to infection. The virus persists for a long time in its environment, and thrives in unsanitary conditions. The vaccine for Canine Parvovirus is given to puppies in combination with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, and then once yearly.

Non-Core Vaccinations
Bordatella bronchiseptica (Kennel Cough)
Bordatella is another component of the syndrome known as Kennel Cough, and should be administered to high risk dogs. This consists of dogs being boarded or attending puppy classes, and many facilities now require vaccination before the dog can be admitted. The vaccine can be given via a squirt in the nose or injected under the skin, and yearly boosters are recommended to maintain immunity.

Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is a re-emerging disease of great importance in both rural and urban areas. It thrives when the climate is warm and moist, and as a result, is most common in the spring and fall. It is spread by contact with urine from infected “host species”, which can include: raccoons, skunks, mice, voles, cattle, and pigs. Dogs can come into contact with contaminated urine in their environment in the form of water dishes, shallow ponds or puddles. The disease can range from mild to fatal, often causing severe kidney failure and liver disease. Furthermore, the organism is transmissible to humans, and care must be taken to ensure all areas of possible contamination be disinfected. Vaccination for dogs with potential exposure is recommended because of the serious illness associated with this disease.

Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme Disease)
Lyme Disease is transmitted by the Deer Tick (Ixodes scapularis) that carries the organism in endemic areas. Signs of disease include arthritis, enlarged lymph nodes, and fever. Behavrioural changes and neurological signs may also be observed, including seizures. Consult your veterinarian to find out if Lyme Disease is important in your area, or if you are traveling to an endemic area with your dog.

Inappropriate Elimination in Dogs - Urination

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 02:58:00 +0000

Dog Urinating in the House

One of pet owners’ greatest frustrations is inappropriate elimination in the house. When the beloved family dog starts to use the living room as his own personal restroom, owners are understandably distraught. Aside from the monetary and time costs of cleaning up the mess left by their dog, the most serious cost can be to the relationship between pet and master. Unable to understand, and therefore cope with, the reasons underlying a pet’s continued housesoiling, some owners choose to give up their animal altogether. This scenario is unfortunate, and

often unnecessary, considering that the behaviour is one that is easier to manage than most owners think.

The first thing that dog owners must understand is that there are many causes of inappropriate urination in the dog. Pinning down the cause is often half the battle, since identifying the problem helps us to select the appropriate treatment and greatly increase the odds of its success.

What would cause a mature dog to urinate in the home despite being given ample opportunity to do so outside? There are medical reasons and behavioural ones, and any vet will tell you that distinguishing between the two is crucial and often dictates the type and success of treatment.

Medical Causes

There are many diseases, especially in older animals, that may manifest themselves as housesoiling. Many geriatric dogs drink and urinate significantly more than usual – something your vet may refer to as “PU/PD”, or “polyuria/polydipsia” – as a result of kidney disease, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, and others. This is why it is important to mention significant increases in your pet’s water consumption to your vet. Dogs needing to relieve themselves more frequently than usual may in fact be suffering from bladder infections, prostate problems, or even tumours of the urinary tract. Incontinence is another culprit. Incontinence can result from neurological dysfunction or decreased urinary sphincter function. Also, geriatric pets may urinate in the home as their cognitive function and awareness of their surroundings declines.

A thorough history, including details about the volume, frequency, and colour of urination can help point your vet in the right direction. In addition, a laboratory analysis of your pet’s urine sample – or urinalysis – with or without simple bloodwork, can be invaluable. Often times, what appeared to be a behavioural problem turns out to have a medical basis, and can then be treated accordingly. Lab tests available through your vet not only rule out behavioural causes, but can help to narrow down the possible medical causes.

Treatment for medical causes of inappropriate elimination very much depends on the cause and the individual patient. Talk to your veterinarian.

Behavioural Causes

In puppies and young dogs, peeing in the house most often stems from insufficient housebreaking training. Urination in response to excitement or as a show of submission to other dogs or people is also common.

Separation anxiety can be an underlying cause of inappropriate elimination. Dogs that are highly bonded with their owners may become distressed by their absence, particularly if the owner has recently had longer periods away from home than usual. Older dogs are especially prone to experience this. Dogs with separation anxiety often show behavioural changes in response to cues of their masters’ impending exit, such as jingling keys or putting on a coat. During and after this time, they will express their upset with signs of overt agitation and restlessness (vocalization, pacing) or with depression (decreased willingness to get up or eat).

The cornerstones of managing separation anxiety include increasing daily exercise (to tire your pet out in advance), desensitizing your pet to your exit routine, and slowly letting pets get used to your absence in small, rather than large or sudden, increments. Leaving dogs with chew toys, other pets, or simply leaving the TV on for them, will help to divert attention away from your absence. In severe cases, a vet may prescribe dog-specific sedatives.

Marking, or urinating small amounts on upright objects, is a behaviour that is likely familiar to the owners of unneutered male dogs. Everyone has seen a male dog lift its leg on a fire hydrant outside, but problems arise when your good loveseat becomes the stand-in. Marking indoors is often the result of territorial instincts being triggered. Watching through the living room window as a strange dog or person approaches or even walks past the house can lead a motivate a male dog to mark his home turf – literally.

Neutering intact males stops marking in over half of these dogs. Another option is to minimize the stimuli leading to marking by keeping pets away from windows, so passersby stay out of their line of sight. Redirecting the marking behaviour toward an upright stake outdoors, and rewarding urination at this appropriate site with food or praise, is also a strategy that some owners find helpful.

The Bottom Line

In summary, owners don’t need to wring their hands when faced with urination in the house. A thorough history, physical exam, and urine tests performed by your vet will help distinguish medical from behavioural roots of the problem, and help tailor a treatment to your pet accordingly. Armed with an understanding of the cause of the problem, a treatment strategy, and a little patience, the family living room no longer has to double as your dog’s restroom.

Deaf dogs - dog article

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:47:00 +0000

The story of Jacob, the deaf Boston Terrier, might make you second guess your own dog’s hearing ability. But how can you determine if your dog is deaf and not just a badly behaved dog that is plainly ignoring you? Short of traveling to a veterinary hospital that provides the Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response (BAER) test, which uses electrodes to evaluate the auditory capability of your dog, there is no other available confirmative test. Although the BAER test is painless, quick, and easy, the dough you shell out for the rather expensive test might be better put towards a training tool for your potentially deaf dog such as the vibrating collar.

There are various rudimentary but adequate tests that you can perform at home to support your suspicion. Such methods include observing your dog’s responsive (or, would it be more appropriate to say, “non-responsive”) behavior:

1. When your dog is sleeping (e.g. when you come home from work), call his/her name loudly, or clap your hands. It is a good indication of deafness if he/she continues sleeping. Be sure that you are not wearing any perfume and do not stand so close that your dog may be alerted by your scent. Sometimes, the draft of air created even by walking slowly past your dog is enough to perk his sensitive nose.

2. Have an assistant go into another room, out of sight of you and your dog. Ask your assistant to make a sound such as rattling a can of coins, or banging loudly on a metal pot (sounds should not include stamping on the floor as vibrations created by the stamping will surely attract your dog’s attention and make the results inconclusive). These sounds should not be pleasant so your dog may react by flattening his ears or lowering his body to the ground. If your dog has no reaction at all he is most probably deaf. If your dog happens to move his ears and his head as if he heard something and was confused as to where the direction of the noise is coming from, he may be partially or unilaterally deaf.

What do you do when you are convinced that your dog is deaf? First, you and your dog should visit and consult with a veterinarian. Your veterinarian will proceed to view your dog’s ear canal with an otoscope to ensure that the external ear has developed appropriately and there no malformation. In some cases, problems such as malformation of the external ear, or an ear infection, your dog’s deafness may resolve upon treatment of the underlying condition. In other cases, as with Jacob the deaf Boston Terrier, they are destined to live in a silent world. Your veterinarian will be able to advise you on your options and he/she can also refer you to a specialist for the BAER test.

Although the BAER test may be costly, it is a definitive and reliable test. Knowing the degree of deafness in your dog can help you adjust your training methods to fit your dog’s needs. Here are some reasons you might want to consider the BAER test:

1. You are uncertain if your dog is unilaterally or bilaterally deaf (deaf in one ear or both ears). The BAER test can determine exactly which ear is affected as it may be difficult to ascertain from rudimentary testing techniques done at home or in-clinic.
2. In some cases, your dog may retain the ability to hear only at certain frequencies. Newly adapted BAER tests can test your dog’s hearing capacity at specific frequencies.
3. You need a test to confirm your findings for peace of mind
4. You may be concerned about deafness if you are breeding dogs that are predisposed to congenital/hereditary deafness.

When you have ascertained that your dog is in fact deaf, you should inform your breeder that your dog has inherited deafness and a responsible breeder will stop breeding the specific dam with the sire, or decide to not breed them altogether. It would also be responsible of you as an owner to not breed your dog and have him/her neutered/spayed if you haven’t already done so.

Many owners who discover that their dogs are deaf go through the tough decision of whether they want to take on the responsibility of caring for a deaf dog. The following is a list of important responsibilities that you will have to assume for the duration of your dog’s stay with you.

* Your dog should never be off-leash in any area that is not completely fenced-in. If your dog runs away, you will not be able to call him back. In addition, if your dog does run away, he might be at a higher risk of getting run over by a vehicle because he cannot hear approaching traffic. This also means that if you don’t have the luxury of a fenced-in yard where your dog can exercise or play fetch, you will have to be active enough to personally exercise with your dog every day.

* Unless you get a vibrating collar for your dog, the only way to get the attention of your dog when he is a distance away from you is to physically go up to him and touch him on his shoulder. Making the floor vibrate by stomping hard on the floor, using a squirt bottle, or throwing things at him may startle him and add to his anxiety.

* You will have to establish a calm demeanor in your dog, because he will have the tendency to be highly anxious, being easily and frequently startled.

* Training your deaf dog can be tricky and time consuming, especially in the beginning when you have to establish the understanding that he needs to read hand signals.

* Your deaf dog will never be a good guard dog. In fact, you will have to assume the responsibility of his guardian throughout his life.

* Some deaf dogs are quiet as a mouse, while other deaf dogs bark incessantly. Teaching a deaf dog not to bark can prove to be an arduous task. Still, there are many methods which you can try to steer your dog away from such disruptive behavior.

* You will need to be mindful about your dog being alone with other dogs even if he may know them well. His inability to hear them bark or growl can put him in precarious situations which may lead to him being bitten. Jacob the deaf Boston was once bit by an American Bulldog, Reba, who was so old she could hardly move. One day, Jacob walked by where Reba was resting and she growled at him. He didn’t see nor hear her warn him and in a split second, she had gotten up and had taken a huge chomp on his little head. Nobody would have thought that sweet Reba who hardly moved could deliver such a blow, but if Jacob had been able to hear her, he would have moved out of harm’s way.

Although the demands of raising a deaf dog are undoubtedly more than that of a normal hearing dog, it is certainly by no means impossible. Patience and diligence in training are the keys to success. You will find that his training is only limited by your imagination and creativity to find ways to communicate with him. Remember, the only disability your dog has is his hearing, not his mental capacity to learn, and certainly not his ability to love you unconditionally. Raising a well-adjusted deaf dog can be a noble and rewarding experience.

BLOAT (DILATATION VOLVULUS)

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:45:00 +0000

Bloat (dilatation) followed by stomach rotation (stomach torsion) is a lifethreatening condition. Partial or complete rotation prevents food from entering or leaving the stomach. The abdomen swells. The affected dog may drool, retch, wander restlessly, become listless, or show signs of pain. Shock quickly develops.

Bloat is an acute condition with a high fatality rate even for dogs that receive immediate medical attention. Early diagnosis and swift surgical intervention, combined with aggressive medical therapy, increases the chances of survival. This condition, however, is as serious as it gets.

DIAGNOSIS - X-rays will confirm the diagnosis. An affected dog may be just uncomfortable or in advanced lifethreatening shock. Reducing pressure inside the stomach is vital. If a tube cannot be passed down the esophagus. your vet will insert a large-diameter needle through the abdominal wall directly into the stomach

TREATMENT - Emergency therapy with fluids, corticosteroids, antibiotics, drugs to control related heart arrhythmias, and drugs to limit the release of large quantities of tissue-damaging tree radicals starts immediately.
At the same time, surgery is used to rotate the stomach back and to secure it down into its normal position. The spleen, because it acts as a pendulum and is often damaged by a gastric rotation, is usually (although probably needlessly) removed.

PREVENTION - If you have a dog that is known to be at risk of bloat (see description at bottom), you can take steps to prevent the problem. Limit water consumption for an hour before or after each meal. Do not allow the dog to drain the bowl of its contents: water should be consumed in moderate quantities. Do not allow rolling or other exercise after meals. Dividing food into small meals has not been shown to reduce the risk of further bloating.

BREEDS AT RISK
The risk of bloat runs in families. Middle-sized, large, or giant breeds with deep, narrow chests are most at risk from this condition.
Breeds at risk of bloat include:
• Doberman Pinscher
• Gordon Setter (above)
• Great Dane (top)
• Irish Setter
• Irish Wolfhound
• Standard Poodle
• Weimaraner

Bloat in dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:43:00 +0000

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.

The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.

Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.

Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.

What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.

Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.

Choosing an Anatolian Shepherd

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:21:00 +0000

The Anatolian shepherd is considered by many to be the best guard dog on the pla

net, especially in regard to livestock. With ancient origins in Turkey, this breed is intended to withstand the harsh climates and a nomadic life. For that reason, the Anatolian shepherd prefers the outdoor life.

History & Origin

The Anatolian shepherd is an ancient breed, with a history dating at least 6,000 years. The primary purpose of the breed was to accompany the nomadic Turkish shepherds and protect the flocks. The Anatolian shepherd was used as the primary defense against predators and was able to withstand the harsh climate of Turkey.

When this guardian breed was first introduced to Great Britain, he was known as the Anatolian Karabash. Eventually, the name was changed throughout the world to the Anatolian shepherd.

Despite a long history, the Anatolian shepherd was not introduced into the United States until the 1950s.

The breed was eventually accep

ted into the American Kennel Club and is a member of the working breed group.

Appearance

The Anatolian shepherd is a large dog with a large broad head. The muzzle is blocky and typically black. The moderate sized triangular ears are pendulous and set below the level of the head. The hair coat is dense and short, typically around 1 inch in length. The hair of the neck is longer and appears as a mane. The most c

ommon color is fawn but other colors, such as brown, red, liver and brindle are available.

Size

The Anatolian shepherd is a massive dog, standing 27 to 29 inches at the shoulder and weighing around 100 to 150 pounds.

Personality

The breed is courageous, highly intelligent and devoted to the job of guarding and protecting. The breed is known for being rugged and powerful, and is unequaled in guarding abilities, especially in regard to livestock.

Home & Family Relations

The Anatolian shepherd is a fiercely loyal dog. Highly intelligent, the breed needs mental stimulation to prevent boredom. This shepherd is highly territorial and is not too friendly around strangers but is usually not aggressive. The Anatolian shepherd thrives in an outdoor environment and doesn't do too well in an apartment setting. If properly exercised, the shepherd can do well in a large house. The breed is happiest when he has something to guard and protect. Their reserved nature and large size makes the breed not a good choice for families with small children.

Training

The Anatolian shepherd is an independent breed that doesn't need much training to be a guard dog. In other areas of training, the Anatolian shepherd is slow to respond to commands. Early socialization and obedience training is strongly recommended to reduce the potential for aggression.

Special Concerns

The Anatolian shepherd is rugged and needs lots of exercise and mental stimulation to prevent destructive behavior. Some Anatolian shepherds may dig. If improperly socialized, some dogs may become aggressive toward stranger or other dogs.

Health Concerns

The following are health concerns or diseases that can be seen in Anatolian shepherd dogs:

Dog House - How to Choose the Right Dog House

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:17:00 +0000

A dog house is a great idea for your favorite canine pal, but there's a lot to consider. You will want to choose the appropriate design and materials to make your dog house safe and durable. You'll want your dog house to look great and be functional as well.

There are a lot of choices to consider, but with the right information, you can choose a dog house that works best for you.

Features to Consider in a Dog House

Materials

Size

Durability

Ability to clean

Chew proof

Safe

Ability to move

Temperature controlled

You will first want to decide whether you would prefer a dog house that is made of metal, wood or plastic. A plastic dog house is the lighter choice and will be easier to move. A dog house made of plastic is also easier to clean and won't rot or harbor parasites. It is however, not the choice for heavier chewers, who may destroy the dog house.

A wooden dog house is less likely to be chewed to splinters and is also the choice of those who want something a little more custom and attractive. It is also more insulated and likely to keep your dog more comfortable. However, wooden dog houses are harder to move and can harbor ticks and fleas.

Metal is also used in the construction of dog houses that are typically in the form of dog boxes. Metal dog boxes tend to be expensive and not the best insulated form of dog house, but can outlast a dog house made of any other material.

You will also want to consider the size of your dog house. Bigger is not necessarily better. Dogs prefer to be in smaller spaces, which make them feel more secure and also stay warm in cold weather. However, the dog house should be big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around.

Desirable Features for a Dog house

Easy to use

Easy to set up

Easy to clean

Stable

Safe - No sharp edges

Comfortable to pet

Keeps pet warm in winter, cool in summer

Although much of your decision-making will involve personal choice, there are some features you should make sure your dog house has in order to keep your dog safe and comfortable. First, the dog house should be easy to set up so that you don't injure yourself or misassemble it. The dog house should also be easy to use and enticing to your dog. Many people spend a fortune on a dog house only to find that their dog won't sleep in it. Make sure it's a size your dog is comfortable with and that the dog house stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It should be stable, easy to clean, and of course safe. There should be no sharp edges and if your dog is going to be tied to it, the dog house should be set up for minimal leash or line tangles.

Ideal Choice for a Dog House

The ideal choice for a dog house is one that is sturdy, attractive, easy to clean, stable, durable, offers good ventilation and visibility so you can keep an eye on your dog.

Safety and Shopping Tips for a Dog house

It is not only important to decide on the features of your dog house, but also to consider why you are getting it. Putting the dog outside is not the best way to solve behavioral problems. Giving a dog that sleeps outside a great place to spend the night however, is an excellent reason to give your dog some shelter. So find the dog house that works for you and give your dog a home!

Animal Control Officers - What Do They Do?

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:15:00 +0000

Stereotypes die hard, but the image of the typical animal control officer has changed remarkably. Long lampooned by cartoons as net-carrying villains, animal control officers are now considered on the frontline of protecting a community's pets and wild animals.

The roles and duties of animal control officers vary widely. In some cities and counties, animal control officers (ACOs) are members of the police department. They are trained and equipped to handle animal-related calls, but possess all policing powers.

A larger or more affluent community may designate certain police officers to act as animal control officers in a sub-department. A smaller community may simply assign an officer to act as animal control officer. ACOs may belong to an entirely separate municipal department, such as the health division.

The general duties are the same, however, in regard to stray or lost pets: to protect the public's health, take care of lost animals and to reunite lost pets with their owners. The job may require investigating all bite cases, reports of cruelty and neglect and to handle all suspected rabid animals. They pick up dead or injured animals, as well as euthanize animals.

It's a far cry from simply being the city's "dog catcher." Police and city officials call on ACOs day and night to answer calls from the routine to the bizarre. A Web site dedicated to animal control officers provides a snapshot of some of the calls they typically receive.

One ACO says he was called out around 1 a.m. to capture a "dangerous" dog. When he arrived, a team of officers had surrounded the house, with the dog behind a shed. The police wanted to tranquilize the dog, but the ACO walked over to the shed and called sweetly to the frightened canine. The dog approached, tail wagging, and the ACO put a loop over his head and walked him out. The police sergeant shook his head and said, "Doesn't that make us look like a bunch of wimps."

On occasion, ACOs must mediate disputes between neighbors when barking dogs or roaming cats create a public nuisance. And, of course, they pick up strays. It's a job ACOs don't relish, which is why the National Animal Control Association strongly urges owners to have their pets well identified with tags, microchips and other methods.

The role of the animal control officer is an evolving one. Indeed, the stereotype of the dog-chasing municipal officer was not far off the mark, explains Jim Weverka, a spokesman for NACA. He says that ACOs became necessary as people moved from rural areas to the cities, and wanted to own a dog. This was especially true for certain breeds that became popular in movies and television shows. Many of these dogs, bought on impulse, wound up on the streets or surrendered to the local authorities.

As cats began to become more popular, they were added to the list of animals that ACOs tried to help. In some places, "fad" pets made it necessary for ACOs to specialize due to the explosive growth of potbellied pigs, reptiles and other exotic pets.

The training and education required to be an ACO depends on the municipality. They often include all the requirements a person must meet to become a police officer or health official, plus demonstrate ability and experience in handling animals and managing a kennel environment.

Dog Eats Poop

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:10:00 +0000

Poop-eating (coprophagia) is generally a natural behaviour in dogs but unfortunately one that can be more than a little disgusting. Let’s face it, dogs are renowned for their flexible palates, and to them, poop is just another taste sensation. Frozen feces, or poopsicles, are an especially alluring snack. Puppies are the most frequent culprits, and owners take heart, they will usually grow out of this habit with a few precautionary measures. Dogs over one year old that have developed this habit can be a little harder to discourage.

Why do they do it?

Dogs are hard-wired to explore any and all potential food resources in their environment. This is especially true of puppies. Feces is very similar in texture to the regurgitated food they got from mom. Breeding females, as well, are naturally inclined to do their own "scooping" as they would normally clean up after their pups in the den. In addition, most dogs feel some urge to keep their territory or den clean, especially if they have been scolded for leaving a mess before. For some dogs, it is also a way to garner attention from an owner or to alleviate stress.

A poor quality diet or one that a dog is unable to digest easily might encourage your dog to give his poop a second round. In households where both dogs and cats are present, dogs may eat cat feces. Cat feces is more nutritious than dog feces, since cats are less efficient at digesting their food. Cat food is also higher in protein than dog food and so cat poop contains many extra nutrients. That being said, there are some cases when coprophagia indicates a greater health problem, such as pancreatic insufficiency, specific nutrient deficiencies, or plain old starvation. A dog that is eating a lot of food can still starve if the food is missing important nutrients. In these cases the dog will lose weight or develop other symptoms over time.

Is it harmful?

On the whole, the biggest consequence of coprophagia is that we humans find it revolting. A dog eating its own poop is unlikely to have any harmful effects. Many owners worry about infectious diseases, but most healthy, vaccinated dogs are at a low risk for picking up illnesses this way. Snacking indiscriminately on neighbourhood poop does increase a dog’s chances of picking up worms (especially if there are cats that hunt in the area), but a standard preventative and treatment program will keep this from affecting your dog’s health. For example, many heartworm medications will also kill some types of intestinal worms, and fecal screening for intestinal parasites should be done twice a year at your vet’s office. Keep in mind that your dog will probably be exposed to most parasites in your community whether he is actually taste-testing or just sniffing around.

Something that is of concern when dogs eat cat poop is that they might end up regularly swallowing a side of kitty litter, which is serious in large quantities, especially if the absorbent (clumping) litter expands in the gut. A dog with a belly full of kitty litter can sometimes become severely ill and might end up at the vet with vomiting or diarrhea. The consumed cat litter can be difficult to remove even with surgery, as it can scatter throughout the digestive tract.

How do I stop it?

In all cases, reducing temptation is the quickest solution. Scoop your yard frequently, keep Fido on a short leash in that poop-riddled park, and put the cat box out of reach. The kitty litter may need to be moved onto a higher surface or put in a room with a baby gate. A covered cat box might be all that is needed if the dog is much larger than the cat.

Quite often, a change to a high quality, high protein, low carbohydrate and low fat diet will do the trick. Commercially available additives are sold in pet stores that claim to make poop less palatable. Many owners find that a teaspoon of canned spinach, pineapple, or a little meat tenderizer works equally well.

Some owners will sprinkle hot sauce or pepper onto the poop in the yard (not on the food!). Keep in mind that Fido can easily sniff out which poops are booby-trapped, so this method might not work as well for dogs that prefer to "eat out" while on walks. Of course it makes sense to get advice from your veterinarian or trainer for help in solving this issue if you cannot.

Although you may wish to train your dog not to use some areas of your house or yard as a toilet, never scold your dog for defecating. Promptly remove him to an appropriate location and praise him when he gets it right. Don’t scold him for poop-eating, either, as even negative attention can be seen as a reward. If stress is the reason for your dog’s new habit, hopefully an end to the stress will result in an end to the habit.

Above all, remember that your dog is performing a behaviour that is natural, and even rewarding to him: to a dog, potentially delicious. Punishment is not always enough to counteract his instincts, and can sometimes reinforce them. Removal of temptation and reward for preferred behaviours are always your best training tools.

Pets : Dog Information

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:06:00 +0000

General Information

The origin of the canine can be traced back with some certainty to the Eocene Miacids that existed nearly 55 million years ago. The modern day dog evolved from the Canoidea line (a coyote type of dog) that existed around 38 million years ago, which again evolved into a fox-like animal (the Leptocyon) and then into a wolf-like animal (the Tomarctus) about 10 million years ago. The Tomarctus was apparently native to the North American continent, and from there began expanding throughout the various parts of the world. The dog like Tomarctus was a dog-like carnivore that eventually evolved into the modern day dog.

Modern day evidence suggests that the dog is the closest relative to the wolf – experts have deduced this information based on genetics and behavior patterns.

These wolf like animals became domesticated as humans began raising the wolf pups as tame and social animals. Humans probably interacted more with these animals because of the shared interest in the same types of prey and habitats. Eventually these pups became dependent on the humans for food and adapted to living with humans. The modern day domestic dog (Canis lupus familiaris) is a descendent of these early wolf-pup domestications beginning around 10,000 BC.

DOG Scientific Information

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Carnivora
Family: Canidae
Genus: Canis
Species: C. lupus
Subspecies: C.l. familiaris

DOG Character Information

The dog has long been considered as “Man’s best friend.” When dogs are properly cared for from the time they are puppies, they will grow to live a good healthy life. Proper care and attention will earn you undying loyalty from your canine friend.

Dogs are primarily different from other household pets for two main reasons: social attachment to humans, and physical temperament

Dogs are social creatures – they bond they form with humans is uncommon to other domesticated animals. Their friendly and protective natures make them ideal companions to humans.

Dogs are varied in their temperaments and have been bred to enhance specific characteristics. Because of their varied physical sizes and temperaments, it is very common for a pet owner to find a type dog that meets their emotional needs – there is pretty much a dog for any type of personality out there.

Choosing an Akita

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:41:00 +0000

The Japanese Akita, also known simply as the Akita, is a national monument is Japan. The breed is described as "tender in heart and strong in strength." The Akita is a fiercely loyal family member, leery of strangers and would prefer to be the only pet in the home.

History and Origin

The Akita hails for the region of Akita on the island of Honshu in Japan. Since 1931, the Japanese Akita has been considered a national monument in Japan and is a symbol of good health and a protector of the home. Legend has it that when a child is born, the parents are given a statue of the Akita to signify happiness and health. A statue is also sent to an ill friend as a way to express a desire for a speedy recovery.

Throughout history, the Akita has had many jobs. He has been employed as an Imperial guard dog, fighting dog, deer and bear hunter, sled dog and has worked as a police and army dog.

Until the 1800s, the Akita had been unchanged. When the sport of dog fighting became popular in Japan, the Akita was crossed with the Tosa, a Japanese fighting dog. This resulted in an increased size in the Akita and an increase in aggressive tendencies, particularly toward other dogs.

Up until the early 1900s, the Akita was well known and revered in his homeland but was not known outside Japan. This ended when an Akita named Hachi-Ko brought the breed into worldwide renown. This dog would accompany his owner to the train station each day on his way to and from work. One day, the dog's owner had a fatal stroke at work. Regardless, Hachi-Ko returned everyday to the train station for 9 years waiting for his owner's return. This story of the loyal Akita and his amazing breed became known throughout the world and at the time of Hachi-Ko's death, a bronze statue was erected at the train station in his honor.

Soon after the story of Hachi-Ko, Helen Keller visited Japan and in 1937 was given 2 Akitas as gifts. She is credited with being the first person to bring the Akita to the United States. More Akitas then found their way to the US after World War II. During the war, the breed almost became extinct. The ravages of war resulted on the dogs starving, being used for food and eventually being killed to prevent the spread of disease. A few survived in remote mountainous regions and after World War II, American servicemen smuggled Akitas home with them.

Eventually, the Akita Club of America was formed and the Akita was accepted into the American Kennel Club as part of the working group.

Appearance

The Japanese akita is a strong, powerful and distinctive looking dog. The head is heavy with a short muzzle and no wrinkles. The chest is deep and broad. The ears of the Akita are small and erect and the eyes are almond-shaped and typically dark brown. The tail of the Akita is very characteristic and should be full, carried high and curled over the back. The overall appearance of the Akita is that of a muscular, well-proportioned dog.

The double haircoat can be any color or a combination of colors.

Size

The adult Akita stands around 26 to 28 inches at the shoulder and weighs about 80 to 120 pounds.

Personality

The Akita is an intelligent and agile dog but can be head strong with a dominate personality. This breed is not a good choice for the first time dog owner and can be aggressive toward other dogs.

The Akita has a strong hunting drive and should not be allowed to roam freely. The breed tends to be very fastidious and is often compared to a cat in matters of personal hygiene.

Home and Family Relations

Akitas are friendly, faithful dogs to family members but do not trust strangers. This makes them good guard dogs but should be supervised when around children they do not know.

Akitas prefer to be the only dog in the home but can do well with other dogs if raised with them from a puppy. They do not enjoy small children but if raised with children and other pets, can tolerate them.

Training

Akitas requires firm and consistent handling with positive reinforcement. Some are dominant and independent and are best handled by an experienced dog owner.

Special Concerns

The coat of the Akita requires grooming to prevent matting. Twice a year, the Akita will shed heavily.

Common Diseases and Disorders

Congenital cataracts cause a loss of the normal transparency of the lens of the eye. The problem can occur in one or both eyes and can lead to blindness.

Entropion is a problem with the eyelid that causes inward rolling. Lashes on the edge of the eyelid irritate the surface of the eyeball and may lead to more serious problems.

Glaucoma is a disease of the eye that develops when the pressure within the eye increases which can lead to blindness.

Progressive retinal atrophy is a disease that causes nerve cells at the back of the eye to degenerate. The condition usually begins in older pets and can lead to blindness.

Retinal dysplasia is a congenital disease of the retina.

In addition, although these occur infrequently, the following disorders have also been reported:

Ventricular septal defect (VSD) a defect of the ventricular septum of the heart.

Pericardial effusion is an accumulation of fluid within the pericardial space. It can be caused by tumors of the heart or idiopathic (no known cause).

Life Span

The average life span of the Akita is 10 to 12 years.

Becoming your pet's best friend

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:38:00 +0000

It is a cliché of all clichés — A dog is a man's best friend. But Lochen Kharawala is a man who, if the canine creatures could voice their opinion, could be easily called 'a dog's best friend'.

Dog consultant, founder of the Ahmedabad Kennel Club, animal behaviour expert and owner of the premiere pet-product shop in the city, 'The Habitat', Kharawala is an animal lover in the true sense of the word.

Starting The Kennel Club
"I have been interested in birds and animals right from childhood," says Kharawala. It was an interest that led him to the Animal Care College, England where he did four cours

es in canine behaviour.

Back in Ahmedabad, he started the Ahmedabad Kennel Club (affiliated to the Indian National Kennel Club) where dog shows are organised, sensitisation programmes held and owners are educated on breeding, buying and all aspects of animal behaviour.

It wasn't easy, says Kharawala. "In India, the awareness level is still low compared to other countries. Ahmedabad too lags behind other cities like Mumbai in this aspect. In fact when we began the club, we literally had to go on a door-to-door campaign to promote this concept."

Dog Shows
However, over the years, there have been a lot of changes in people's attitude. For instance, when the first dog show was held in Ahmedabad, there were around 60 participants only.

Today, the annual December show attracts a crowd of over 250 participants and 5,000 visitors. At times, the judges are brought from abroad. "Such programmes help the dog socialise with other animals which is very essential," he says.

Pet Care
He also stresses a lot of importance on nutrition and proper care of pets. Thus, apart from stocking quality pet products, Kharawala's store also has a pet parlour attached to it.

Dogs, depending on the breed and age, are given the royal treatment — grooming, pruning, clipping, nail cutting — you name it.

Dog Training Academy
Two months ago, Kharawala and his wife, Freya, a veterinary surgeon, started the dog training academy — a unique centre to train pet owners (and the pets) on various aspects of animal psychology and behaviour.

"It is very essential for the owners to get involved with their pets and understand them better. For instance, aggression is the most common complaint of all pet owners. It arises due to a lack of understanding of the animal's needs. These classes are precisely aimed to sensitise owners and increase their knowledge about pet behaviour," he says. Thus these classes conducted thrice a week are attended by animal lovers from different age-groups along with their pets.

Ultimately, all programmes are aimed at fostering greater understanding between man and animals.

As Kharawala says, "Dogs are the only living beings that love their masters more than themselves. They expect nothing but a little love in return." Not surprisingly, his favourite quotable quote is: 'The more I see men, the more I love dogs'.

Bringing Home A Pet

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:31:00 +0000

Your puppy might not sit, eat or listen to you at times but owning a puppy can be heartwarming, relaxing and gratifying although it demands a lot of time as per their training and caring. Besides their breed, your raising style does have a tremendous impact on the attitude, character and behaviour of your pet.

Adopting a puppy:

Before you go in for buying a puppy, you should mentally prepare yourself to be willing to d

evote your time, energy and money for the little one. Choosing a puppy means making a commitment towards providing a long-term care for the living creature that is totally dependent on you.

When going for buying the puppy certain features needs to be kept in mind:

• Do not adopt a puppy unless it is six to eight weeks old.

• The puppy should look alert, curious and active instead of shy or nervous.

• The puppy should have clear eyes, clean ears, and white teeth with pink gums but no running nose or skin irritation problems.

• When buying a pure breed puppy do check out at least one of the parents.

• Do register the puppy, before taking it home, from organizations like KCI.

• Do get your puppy vaccinated since small dogs are very susceptible to diseases.

Besides this, you need to make your dog socially adaptable, so that it opens up to its new environment as quickly as possible. Dogs socializing habits depend upon their breed too. Socialising must be done carefully so as not to frighten or overwhelm them too soon.

Planning the Homecoming:

The day you plan to bring in your dog you should make sure that you have made proper arrangement and taken time out for his homecoming.

There are certain entities that you should buy before hand:

• Brush or Hand mitt for grooming

• Collar and leash

• Water bowls that are heavy, non-tippable and easy to clean

• Crate or a bed

• Toys that are designed especially for dogs

• Well- insulated doghouse

• High quality nutritionally complete and balanced food

Food Habits:

A puppy is equivalent to a child. The length and quality of your pet’s life depends upon three factors; genetics of the dog, nutritional content and care imparted. Since a puppy is in its growth stage it requires correct intake of all nutrients for its growth and development :

• Proteins are required for building in strong muscles

• Calcium for strong bones and teeth

• Iron for high hemoglobin count

• Enough calories for energy

There are many branded products in the market. Purina Dog Chow – Puppy, available with the Vets and even at Pet stores, contains complete nutritional requirements and helps the puppy to lead a healthy life.

A proper time management schedule should be planned out for feeding your pet.

• Small breed dogs should be fed at least thrice a day and it’s best to feed your dog in the morning as much as possible.
• Medium and large breed puppies should be fed only twice a day.
• At about four months of age your pets starts to replace their puppy teeth with permanent ones. Thus during this time puppies need food that can be chewed easily like Purina Puppy Chow.
• Try and avoid offering the puppy food from the dining-table or giving hard bones, as they are most likely to lead to digestive upsets.
• Since your pup is developing from inside it needs full nutrition and formulated puppy food such as Purina Puppy Chow.

The amount of food needed by a puppy will vary depending upon its size, activity, metabolism and environment. Taking good protective care and making sure that they are feeling comfortable in every situation or challenge faced by them ensures that they will grow up to be strong and well adjusted.

Choosing an Affenpinscher

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:28:00 +0000

The affenpinscher, also known as the monkey terrier, is an ancient toy terrier that has a monkey-like appearance. The breed was previously uncommon and used to hunt rodents but has recently surged in popularity.

History and Origin

The affenpinscher is considered by many to be the oldest toy breed but the breed's true history is shrouded in mystery. What is known is that the breed has been around since the 1600s

and was developed in Germany to hunt vermin. It has been suggested that the affenpinscher was developed from crossing the small local German pinschers with pug-like dogs from Asia. Eventually, the affenpinscher was used in the development of the Brussels griffon, miniature schnauzer and several other toy breed dogs.

In Germany, the affenpinscher was developed to rid the kitchens and stables of mice. Their expertise in this field was famous and the little dogs soon found their way into the homes of people throughout Europe.

In France, the dog was called the "mustached little devil," which describes the breed's appearance as well as his personality. From the 17th century, the affenpinscher has been kept around small stables, on farms, and in stores for the purpose of keeping the rodent population down. By the early 1900s the affenpinscher was well established in North America and by 1936, the American Kennel Club recognized the affenpinscher in the toy group.

Appearance and Size

The affenpinscher has a wide, round head covered with ruffled hair, mustache and bushy eyebrows. They have a strong, prominent chin and a short nose. The affenpinscher has dark, round prominent eyes that express intelligence. Their ears are often pointed and erect and the tail is carried high. The breed has a compact, sturdy body with a coarse and rough coat. The undercoat is slightly curly, but stiff and wiry texture. The coat of the affenpinscher comes in black, gray, silver, grayish-black, bluish-gray, black and tan symmetrical markings or red varying from brownish red to an orange tan. The height from the shoulders ranges from 9 to 12 inches and the weight ranges from 8 to 12 pounds.

Personality

The affenpinscher is a sturdy little terrier, characterized by his "monkeyish" expression. He is comical, intelligent and sometimes smug and stubborn. Although he is a member of the toy group, he has a personality more like those of the terrier group. The affenpinscher is lively and self-confident dog, full of mischief, but a loyal companion to his owners.

Home and Family Relations

Affenpinschers are curious dogs with fierce loyalty and affection towards their owners. They have an amicable nature and a deep devotion that makes them an excellent companion and a supreme watch dog. They can do well in the city or in the country. They do need to be watched around larger dogs since these diminutive dogs don't seem to understand that their size is a disadvantage when picking a fight with someone bigger.

Training

The affenpinscher is usually quiet, but can become excited when threatened or attacked and is fearless toward aggressors. They can excel in obedience but do take some patience to train. Firm gentle training works best but be aware that if you don't train them, they will train you. As with other members of the toy group, the affenpinscher may be difficult to housebreak.

Grooming

The affenpinscher does not require much grooming. Daily brushing is sufficient.

Special Care

The affenpinscher can have problems with the hot and humid weather due to their short muzzles. Keep them out of extreme hot or cold weather.

Common Diseases and Disorders

In general, the Affenpinscher is a healthy dog with few medical concerns. However, the following diseases or disorders have been reported:

Walk Your Dog and Lose Your Holiday Weight:

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:24:00 +0000

The holidays are over. That means no more parties, no more elaborate turkey dinners, and no more holiday treats making a beeline for your hips. If you have picked up a few pounds that weren't on your wish list, don't despair; there is a simple solution: Get out and exercise.

Given the choice between doing sit-ups and walking your dog, you'd probably grab the leash and head for the door. And why not? Your waistline can't tell the difference. Any physical activity you do on a regular basis will help you slim down and firm up.

Exercise gurus suggest that using the buddy system is a great way to keep motivated to stick to an exercise program and lose weight. Often the hardest part of any program is getting started, but when a "buddy" is depending on you to get off the couch and out the door – in fact, standing there with pleading eyes and his leash in his mouth (sound like anyone you know?) – you are more likely to do it.

Learn From Your Dog

Dogs think exercise is fun. Dogs do not use the snooze alarm to give them "just 5 more minutes" before they get up out of bed and out the door. They do not have a little voice speaking to them from within and saying things like, "You exercised yesterday – today you need a break," or "You can go later when you're not so busy," or "It looks like rain – better wait."

All dogs require exercise – even the small breeds. Some dogs are bred for work or sport and demand vigorous exercise. But your dog needs a buddy, too. If left alone or confined to a fenced yard, he will not exercise either. And an unexercised dog is an unhappy dog, an unfit dog and very often a badly behaved dog.

Benefits of Exercise

Exercise has many benefits, the most obvious being that it keeps your body toned and healthy, gives you energy, and makes you feel better. For all the same reasons, your dog needs to get up and get moving, too. Here are some other benefits that you shouldn't overlook:

Exercise helps you control excess body fat and lose weight. Of course, this is often the most important aspect of an exercise program. Granted, you also need to cut back on your caloric intake a bit; but studies have repeatedly shown, that people who combine a sensible diet with regular physical activity are not only more successful in losing excess weight; they are usually more successful at keeping that weight off.

The key to losing body fat is for you to decrease your caloric intake by 500 calories a day. You can do this with a combination of calorie reduction and exercise. After one week you will have decreased your intake by 3,500 calories, which will result in the loss of one pound of fat. In other words you can lose one pound a week.

It is believed that 30 minutes or more of low-intensity exercise could burn more calories and body fat than brief high-intensity exercise – up to 240 calories an hour. Furthermore, breaking up exercise sessions into shorter bouts, perhaps 10 minutes four times a day, can foster as much or even more weight loss as exercising 40 minutes at a time.

Exercise controls appetite. Studies show that vigorous exercise acts as a temporary appetite suppressant. As an added bonus, when appetite returns, caloric intake does not compensate for caloric expenditure.

Exercise changes the way the body processes food. Ideally, food should be used as energy rather than being stored in the body as fat. However, sedentary people tend to store excess calories as fat instead of using it for energy.

Exercise increases your metabolic rate both during and up to 48 hours after exercising. Muscle tissue is far more active than fat tissue and even when a person's muscles are at rest, they are actively consuming energy. A person's metabolism speeds up in order to provide muscle tissue with this energy.

Exercise also preserves muscle tissue – the only place where calories are "burned." A greater percentage of muscle vs. fat increases the number of calories you use daily. To lose body fat effectively, you must become a calorie consuming, fat burning, exercise machine.

Exercise reduces stress and boredom for you and your dog. Insufficient exercise as well as not enough of your attention can contribute to problem behaviors including chewing, digging, garbage raiding, hyperactivity, unruliness, excitability, attention-getting behaviors, and even some forms of barking. Everyone needs a change in scenery and this is true for both you and your dog. Getting some quality outdoor time can benefit both of you.

Hit the Road

Fitness walking is different from your ordinary stroll, so you should work into it gradually. You will obtain benefits by walking at a 15- to 20-minute mile, but if you haven't been exercising regularly, you may not be able to move that fast right away. Even if you take 35 minutes to walk that mile, you will improve with time – and you'll still reap the benefits.

If your dog hasn't exercised regularly in the past, he will need to ease into a regular fitness program, too. Have your veterinarian check his physical condition, then keep your eye on him as you exercise; rapid breathing, bright red gums, and lagging behind may be indications that he is fatigued.

Most walking programs suggest the following method:

Start with short walks and gradually work into longer exercise sessions. Again, four 10-minute sessions is just as beneficial as one 40-minute stretch.

Start out slowly and work up to a brisker pace. Keep your steps short and fast. The faster you move, the better your cardiovascular workout; however, don't walk faster than your comfort level allows. You should be able to carry on a conversation without getting out of breath. Maintain an even stride and a steady pace.

Stand up straight and look ahead. Keep your shoulders back and relaxed, chest lifted and tailbone pointing toward the ground. Keep your dog close at your side. Swing your arms naturally at your sides for balance and movement.

Your heel should be the first part of your foot to touch the ground. Then roll through the ball of your foot and push off with your toes. This motion reduces shin splints and tendon pulls.

Precautions

Bring enough water for you and your dog.

Unless you are in an isolated area, keep your pet on a leash as you walk. Even the best trained dogs often bolt into the path of an oncoming car or become interested in other animals.

Avoid walking in extreme weather – keep sessions short if it's too cold, too hot or too stormy. During summer, avoid walking during the hottest parts of the day. The best times are early morning, late afternoon or evening.

If you walk at night, put reflectors on your pet's collar as well as your own clothes.

Avoid hot pavement or rocky terrain. If it is uncomfortable for your bare feet, it is probably uncomfortable for your dog's foot pads. Try to walk on dirt paths or grass as much as possible. If your dog shows signs of soreness or has trouble getting to his feet, stop walking and take him to your veterinarian.

Before you walk, let your dog sniff and "mark" (urinate) outside for a while, so that he won't need to stop often. If he does stop, a "no" and a gentle but firm tug on the leash should get him moving again, and soon he will get used to walking without stopping.

If your dog has more energy than you, try tossing a Frisbee for a while. This can use up 250 to 350 calories an hour, and even more if it's strenuous.

As you begin this new year, make a commitment to yourself and your pet. Exercising with your dog is a great way to strengthen the bond between you. As an added bonus, you'll be exercising, your dog will be exercising, and you will both be enjoying quality time together.

Pet at Home

noreply@blogger.com (Vamsi) — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:13:00 +0000

A pet or companion animal is an animal kept for companionship and enjoyment, as opposed to livestock, laboratory animals, working animals or sport animals, which are kept for economic reasons. The most popular pets are noted for their loyal or playful characteristics, for their attractive appearance, or for their song.

Pets also generally seem to provide their owners with non-trivial health benefits; keeping pets has been shown to help relieve stress. There is now a

medically-approved class of "therapy animals," mostly dogs, who are brought to visit confined humans. Walking a dog can provide both the owner and the dog with exercise, fresh air, and social interaction.

Koko the gorilla is one of few examples of a non-human animal which has had an explicit pet. Using sign language, she requested a cat; her first pet was a kitten named All Ball, to which she was reported to be quite attached and mourned for several days after the cat escaped and was killed by a car.

Domestication

While in theory any animal might be a pet, in practice only a small number of species of mammals (especially dogs and cats) and other small animals, such as birds, fish, or lizards, are practical. One reason for this is that large animals are not able to fit inside small dwellings.

In general, a pet must either be small enough (or easily controlled) for his or her undesirable behavioral tendencies to be negligible, or the animal must be actually domesticable. Examples of the former are such animals as fish (including carnivorous ones such as piranha), chickens, invertebrates or small mammals.

A few animals are sufficiently capable of adapting to human interaction to be considered domesticable. Dogs ("man's best friend") are considered to be a classic example of domesticated animals normally suited to being pets. Domestic dogs are quite similar to wolves, but their physical form and behavior are characteristically different, more than mere differences in size, coat, or coloring. Behaviorally speaking, characteristic changes in dogs due to domestication include a prolonged infancy, increased playfulness, and increased barking. Wolves are far less playful and vocal.

Many rodents—such as fancy rats, fancy mice, and Syrian hamsters—are commonly kept as household pets.

Such animals as reptiles are typically considered exotic pets. This may change in the future, as 'exotic' pet ownership is increasing rapidly. Some of these animals, such as green iguanas, large monitor lizards, and large birds, do not make suitable pets for the average person, as they require extensive housing and diet. They can also become quite aggressive if not regularly handled. Exotic mammals are also becoming increasingly more popular as pets. For example, the domesticated hedgehog has been selectively bred to the point where its physical characteristics no longer directly match its wild European and African counterparts.[citation needed] One reads occasional reports in People and other magazines of individuals who have run into legal trouble for keeping large exotic pets, both in rural estates and urban apartments. A few years ago, New York Police Department officers arrested a man who had kept large cats and an alligator in a small Manhattan apartment [4] Many animal species are difficult to handle and cannot be pets for the general populace. Raptors, such as eagles and falcons, must be handled very carefully to avoid attacks on their handlers; the sport of falconry is to a large extent ways of avoiding such outcomes, and so they are not really pets in the sense meant here. Large cats cannot become pets, as they do not reliably restrain their impulses (although cheetahs are an exception and have been kept as pets in the past). Nor do the large bears, for similar reasons. Small monkeys can be human companions, but they are notoriously unable to defer their curiosity which leads to much destruction. Several of the ferret and otter varieties can be human companions. Raccoons also fit this example. They adapt easily to almost any environment, but resist domestication.

A pet can be acquired from an animal shelter, a breeder, and from private transactions, typically due to the giving away of extra newborns after the birth of a litter. See also pet adoption. Because of environmental and public safety concerns, some pets are illegal in many areas.

Terminology
In veterinary medicine, dogs and cats are often considered "household" pets, while all other animals are grouped into either "farm animals" (such as horses, cows, or sheep) or "exotics" (including pocket pets, birds, and reptiles)

Local restrictions
Many cities and towns have local ordinances limiting the number of pets a person may have, and may also restrict or forbid certain pets (such as fowl or exotics).

The cities of Berkeley, California and Boulder, Colorado have passed laws stating that people who have pets do not "own" them; rather, they are the pet's "guardian."

Condominium associations and rental properties often ban animals[citation needed] because of the smells and noise the animals create.

There are some products introduced in the market to avoid barking, Ultra sonic sound is used in these products which restore peace in neighborhood without harming the animals.

Pet popularity
The two most popular pets in most Western countries have been cats and dogs. In the United States, census data shows that dogs are slightly more popular based on the number of households, but that the number of pet cats is almost twice as high as dogs.[6] Combined reptiles are the next popular followed by birds followed by horses, and finally, monkeys.

Effects of pets on their caregiver's health

Health benefits

Pets have the ability to stimulate their caregivers, in particular the elderly, giving people someone to take care of, someone to exercise with, and someone to help them heal from a physically or psychologically troubled past.[8] Having a pet may help people achieve health goals, such as lowered blood pressure, or mental goals, such as decreased stress.[9] There appears to be strong evidence that having a pet can help a person lead a longer, healthier life. In a study of 92 people hospitalized for coronary ailments, within a year, 11 of the 29 without pets had died, but only 3 of the 52 who had pets.[8]

Pets in long-term care institutions

Even pet owners residing in a long-term care facility, such as a hospice or nursing home, experience health benefits from pets. Pets for nursing homes are chosen based on the size of the pet, the amount of care that the breed needs, and the population and size of the care institution.[8] Appropriate pets go through a screening process and, if it is a dog, additional training programs to become a therapy dog.

Different pets require varying amouns of attention and care; for example, cats are have lower maintenance requirements than dogs.

Health risks

Health risks that are associated with pets include:

* Aggravation of allergies and asthma
* Injuries (and, rarely) deaths caused by pet's bites
* Disease or parasites due to animal hygiene problems

Pets and allergies

Some people with allergies can have adverse reactions to animal dander and fur or feathers. Some people with asthma can have attacks triggered by these. However, research supports that people who have been exposed to dogs and cats as pets from an early age may develop an immunoresistance to these allergens/