Dog licking - Why Dogs Lick by Dr. Stanley Coren

…As the puppies grow older, they begin to lick and clean themselves and their littermates. This mutual licking and grooming serves social functions. Obviously, it helps keep the puppies clean, but in the process it helps strengthen the bonds between the puppies. The actual mechanism that builds this affection is mutual satisfaction. A puppy can have companions get at those hard-to-reach places, like ears and backs and faces, and can pay them back by licking their littermates in their inaccessible regions. Since friends and familiars groom friends and familiars as a considerate gesture, the very act of licking another dog develops significance as a means of communication. Licking thus shifts from being a utilitarian and useful act to becoming a ritualized gesture. The meaning of this gesture at this time in a puppy's life involves goodwill and acceptance. In effect, each puppy is saying, "Look how friendly I am." As the puppy matures, the message sent by licking continues to be friendly but is widened to also mean, "I'm no threat," and perhaps the submissive plea, "Please accept me and be kind."

Licking takes on a further meaning a bit later in the puppy's life, usually around the time that it is becoming less dependent on its mother's milk. In the wild, when a mother wolf returns from hunting, she will have already fed herself on her quarry. When she enters the den, the puppies gather around her and begin to lick her face. To a romantic, this may look like a loving greeting with all of the puppies overjoyed at mother's return after her absence of several hours. They are seen as simply kissing her in happiness and relief. The actual purpose of all of this face licking, however, is much more functional. Wild canines have a well-developed regurgitation reflex, and the puppies lick their mother's face and lips to cause her to vomit up some food. It is most convenient for the mother to carry food in her stomach rather than trying to drag things back to the den in her mouth. Furthermore, this partially digested material makes ideal dining for young puppies.

It is interesting to note that our domestic dogs actually have a reduced sensitivity for their regurgitation reflex in comparison to wolves or jackals. Puppy-induced regurgitation is not as often seen in dogs unless the pups are not being fed well. When it does occur, it is more likely to occur in sharp-faced breeds that appear to be more similar to wild canines, such as the wolf.

Understanding the development of licking behavior helps to interpret another place where it occurs. Face licking in adult canines can be a sign of respect or deference to a more dominant dog. The dog doing the licking usually lowers its body to make itself smaller, and looks up, adding to the effect of juvenile behavior. The dog receiving the face licks shows its dominance by standing tall to accept the gesture, but does not lick the other dog in return.

Now when your dog tries to lick your face, you should have a better idea of what he's trying to communicate. He may simply be hungry and asking for a snack. Obviously, you won't regurgitate some food at that signal, but you might respond affectionately and perhaps give him a treat, such as a dog biscuit. He may be communicating submission and pacification-the adult version of goodwill in puppies. Basically, he is saying, "Look, I'm just like a puppy who is dependent on big adults like you. I need your acceptance and help." Alternatively, he may be showing respect and deference to you as a more dominant dog in his pack..."

Pet Tips:WINTER PET CARE TIPS

It's grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-ry cold here in Southwestern Lower Michigan, and the snow is piling high. Even though some of us love to play in it, that snow can be real scary stuff. If you're just little, like Miss Mouse the Kitten, you can be buried before you leave your back porch. Even the big guys like Socks, Dillon, and DomiNoe have trouble navigating through the drifts. Please, Pet Lovers, use a little common sense in this wintery wonderland:

• Make sure all "outdoor" dogs have a warm, dry doghouse, with a flap-type door and straw to snuggle in. In this weather, there is no such thing as an "outdoor" cat!

• Bring ALL pets into the house when the temperatures drop!

• Feed your pets a little more. Like people, they burn more calories in the cold, both to keep warm and because exercise is more strenuous when running through the snow. The more your pet is outside, the more extra fuel he'll need.

• Be sure your pet has plenty of fresh water to drink. Pets, like people, lose moisture through breathing, and the effects of cold temperatures are magnified by dehydration. Keep water bowls free of snow and ice.

• Notice that your skin is drier and flakier during the winter? Your pet's skin may dry out, too, causing his coat to lose insulating ability. If you notice flaking skin ("doggie dandruff") or a lusterless coat, ask your vet about adding a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil to his food.

• Keep an eye on your pets when you put them outside to "do their business." Wind chills cut through short fur just as fast as they do through your street clothes, and even tough paw pads can be frostbitten. Use pet sweaters and boots that fit well but leave plenty of freedom of movement for walking, running, playing, and…er, going, if your pet will tolerate them, and don't leave animals outside too long! If the pet is shivering or limping--even if having a great time playing-- get him or her into the house immediately! If you don't, you may end up carrying him/her.

• When the snow starts piling up, shovel paths and a bathroom area in your yard. Some people make a game of it with their dogs, adding to the paths each time they go outside to form runs and mazes that they can enjoy together.

• If your dog insists on going "walkies" regardless of the weather, don't go too far when it's really cold, and clean off Fido's feet when you've been walking on plowed streets and salted sidewalks. Salt and road chemicals can burn those pads, and they don't do the digestive tract any good when licked off paws, either. Don't use salt or chemicals in dog pens or play areas!

• Everybody has heard about the dangers of anti-freeze and windshield de-icer, but until pets quit dying from lapping up spills in their owners' driveways, the message bears repeating. These products smell sweet, taste good to your dog or cat, and even as little as a teaspoonful can kill (depending on the size of the pet--or child). Symptoms include an appearance of "being drunk:" lack of coordination, vomiting, depression, and increased water intake and urination. Call your vet immediately if you suspect anti-freeze poisoning; these chemicals kill in a matter of 4 - 8 hours or less! Even if the pet seems to be getting better, irreparable kidney damage may have already occurred. Of course you're careful yourself or use an animal-friendly anti-freeze, but be aware that others aren't always as knowledgeable or conscientious. Keep your pets away from any spills you might encounter when you're out and about.

• If you see an animal left out in the cold, please speak to its owner, or notify your local police or animal welfare agency! Difficult as it may be, when talking to neglectful pet owners, don't be accusatory or belligerent. Get your point across conversationally, if you can, and in a friendly manner. Ignorance is curable by education.

Fall: Halloween Pet Safety Tips

The nights are getting chilly, the leaves are falling, the kids are back to school, and it'll soon be Halloween. What a great time of year! Animal Aid would like to help you enjoy fall with your pet.

First of all, if you have school-age children, don't be impatient if your dog or cat seems to be demanding more attention from you these days. He or she got used to having the entire "pack" at home during the summer vacation, and may be lonely for "his" or "her" children. Give the pet an extra ear scratch or tummy rub every once in a while, or just talk to him or her as you go about your daily routine! Also, keep him/her in the house when the kids leave for school so that he/she isn't tempted to follow children or buses.

Speaking of Halloween--Animal Aid will not be adopting out animals between 25 - 31 October. Also, if you share your home with all-black, all-white, or mixed black and white dogs and cats: keep a close eye on your pets, as there is a disturbingly high incidence of animals of these colors disappearing around Halloween. Please, PLEASE do NOT give pets of these colors away "Free to Good Home", particularly at this time of year! Believe it or not, there are some crazy people out there who will "sacrifice" black, white, or black and white animals in their All Hallows Eve "ceremonies!"

No doubt about it, Halloween can be a scary time for pets. As much as you and your children want to include them in your own celebrations, remember that pets really don't understand what's going on around them. Look at Halloween from a pet's point of view:

• There are some very sudden changes in the normally well-ordered household--maybe strangely-pitched music, weird noises, odd clothing, an alteration in schedules, and lots of excitement.

• For humans, scary is good at Halloween. But does your dog realize the difference between "good" scary and "threatening" scary? He may try to protect you from those unusual sounds and noisy, costumed strangers banging at your door.

• Wow, that front door is opening and closing a lot. Even if your pet doesn't view Trick or Treaters as dangerous invaders in his domain, he may decide he wants to go home with one of them--or, just run out and play with the entire group!

• All right, so your dog or cat isn't afraid of these costumed strangers. However, many children ARE afraid of dogs or cats, and meeting one of these dreaded creatures at a door where they expect only candy can be traumatic.

• And look at all that candy! You're probably munching down yourself as you hand it out to Trick or Treaters, and your pet will be looking up at you with those great, big, loving eyes. Resist. Give him a dog biscuit or cat treat instead, and remind your children not to share their own bounty. Sugar isn't good for dogs, and chocolate can be toxic.

• That full bag of Junior's sitting on the floor or the edge of the counter can be mighty tempting. You-know-who is going to want to check it out thoroughly, and will steal goodies if he can. Put the treats away where your pet can't get himself into trouble!

• You found a great pet costume, and Fido or Puss really loves being dressed up, or adds just the right touch to your child's costume? OK, if he has to go along Trick or Treating, it's best to keep the pet on a short leash, away from other animals or children that he doesn't know. (If Fido or Puss HATES being dressed up--don't force the issue just because you think it's cute.)

• Be sure that the pet can walk, see, and pant in his costume (not to mention, being able to respond to the calls of nature), and put reflective tape on both his costume and your child's. Do a "dress rehersal" to assure yourself that your child can successfully juggle the animal's leash, his own treat bag and costume, and interacting with his friends.

• And if that cute pet costume fastens with rubber bands, be absolutely certain that those rubber bands are all removed. If mistakenly left on the pet, rubber bands quickly burrow into the animal's skin.

Quite frankly, when it's Trick or Treat time, most pets prefer a quiet room and a favorite toy. But, if you want your pet to be an active participant in the festivities, your knowledge of possible dangers, and a little common sense, can assure a safe, fun Halloween for everyone!

Beware of Heat Stroke

Wow, with the Fourth of July, we really know that summer is here! And is it HOT! If you can walk across a blacktop parking lot in the steamy midafternoon heat and not feel like you're melting into a puddle, you're definitely in the minority. But have you considered the toll this heat and humidity may be taking on your pet?

Dog owners, in particular, love to share all of their summer activities with their furry friends. Pets go along to the shopping mall, to loll on the beach, to the Art Fair in the park and Venetian Festival on the Bluff. And dogs love to be with their People--even if it puts their lives at risk. Yes, puts their lives at risk. That happy, endearing, tongue-lolling grin may also be a warning of impending heat stroke, and just as with people, severe heat stroke will cause nausea, loss of consciousness, irreparable brain damage, and, finally, death.

Remember that blacktop parking lot? You've seen the heat waves shimmering up off it. You've felt the heat right through the bottom of your shoes, maybe even had to clean off bits of melted tar when you got home. Now, imagine walking barefoot down a blacktopped street. That's what you're asking your dog to do when you take him to events uptown. Ouch! And, hey. How hot is that beach sand he has to lie down in?

Oh, you only walk in the grass? Good for you. But, have you noticed that you tire easily, and that you get very, very thirsty? Guess what? Your dog will tire more easily and become dehydrated from panting, too, compounded by the stress of being surrounded by so much activity (he'll want to see it all) and all those people (who must be there just to pet him). Many owners don't even realize that their dogs are overheated, thirsty, and just plain terrified of the crowds and confusion!

So, you'll leave Fido in the car, right? Wrong! Even with the windows open, how hot is that vehicle when you come back to it? Like climbing into an oven, right? And you want to leave your Best Friend in there? Not even for a few minutes. Here are the boring statistics--but keep reading, because this info may keep you from loving your dog to death.

On an 85 degree day, the temperature inside your car, even with the windows open a bit, will climb to 102 degrees in 10 minutes! After half an hour, it will go up to 120 degrees or even higher! On a 90 degree day, temps in that car can top 160 degrees faster than you can walk around the block. We won't even talk about the back of a pickup truck, "in the fresh air," with no shade. If you really love your dog, leave him at home, in a nice, cool, place, with plenty of fresh water to drink.

In fact, if it's an exceptionally hot day, keep your dog or cat in the house with you, a fan, and/or the air conditioning, maybe even some frozen-bullion dog treats (low-sodium beef or chicken bullion cubes dissolved in water and frozen in an ice cube tray). When your dog has to go out, monitor him. Don't let him play hard or lie on the deck in the sun too long. That ground heats up fast, the shade offers little protection when the temps top 90 and the humidity soars, and your vet can tell you all sorts of horror stories about well-meaning owners who let their dogs out "just for a minute," got involved in something else--and forgot Fido. Some people leave a wading pool full of cool water out for their dogs to splash in--which is OK, as long as your dog likes water, and the water in the pool isn't sun-warmed to tea temperature. Even then, a general rule is, if it's too hot outside for you, it's too hot outside for your pet.

Yeah, but animals can handle the heat better than humans, right? Whatever gave you that idea? A dog's normal body temperature is 101.5 to 102.2 degrees Fahrenheit. A body temp of 107 - 108 degrees for a dog would be equivalent to, say, 104 - 105 or so in a human. Not only that, but dogs don't cool themselves by sweating, as their People do, but by evaporation through panting. As for cats--well, below is Crash, an Animal Aid rescue. As a kitten, he was found in a stifling attic, his mother and siblings dead, nearly dead himself from heat stroke and severe dehydration. As a consequence, he suffered brain damage--it was predicted that he'd never be able to walk or eat by himself. It's only thanks to the perseverance and dedication of his adopted family that he now "walks, eats, and drinks by himself, and rules the house." He does have coordination problems, though, hence his name, Crash.

With the right combination of circumstances, your pet can suffer heat stroke even if you do all the do'sand don't all the don'ts. A normal-length walk or run can end in tragedy, and one Boston Terrier nearly died in the car as it sped down the highway on a spring vacation trip. His People weren't even uncomfortable, but it was hot, and the dog was stressed. Luckily, there was a vet clinic just off the freeway in the town they were passing through. The vet told them that short-nosed dogs, such as the bulldog breeds, are often more susceptible to the heat. Surprisingly, short-haired dogs can be, too, as are very young or older animals and animals with health problems.

How do you recognize heat stroke in your pet? He'll pant like crazy, become exhausted or agitated, start upchucking. At this point, you can usually cool him down by giving him ice cubes to lick (cold water will upset his stomach worse and hasten dehydration), sponging him down with a wet towel, and letting him lie in front of a fan. In extreme cases, after the previous symptoms manifest themselves, his gums will take on a grayish tinge, then his tongue will turn blue, then he'll lose consciousness. Take immediate action! Immerse him in cold water or hose him down with a gentle but soaking spray and direct that fan on him. Get his body temperature down first, then call your vet! If you do these in reverse order, it may be too late. It would be a very good idea to print this page and discuss it with your vet beforehand, just to be prepared.

Really, though, just a little common sense is all it takes to ensure a trauma-free summer with your favorite companion. And maybe a trip to Tastee Freeze for ice cream...!

Dog vaccinations - Why we need it??

Our pet’s health is extremely important to us. As a result, we try to do everything possible to ensure that they do not get sick. One of the most important and effective ways to prevent infectious diseases is to vaccinate our furry friends on a regular basis. Many devastating diseases, such as rabies and canine distemper, are now almost completely preventable with the use of an appropriate vaccination protocol.


Puppies get their protection from diseases via their vaccinated mother’s milk. The puppies must suckle immediately after they are born to receive the optimal immunity to diseases, and this protection lasts for just a few weeks after they are weaned. Puppies must then be vaccinated at 8 weeks of age with the core vaccines, with boosters given at 12 and 16 weeks.




The vaccines given to puppies and adult dogs consist of core and non-core vaccines. The core vaccines are given to all dogs, and represent some of the more significant infectious diseases. These vaccines include: Rabies, Canine Distemper Virus, Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, and Canine Parvovirus. The non-core vaccines are catered more towards the lifestyle of the dog, meaning that their administration is dependent more on the risk of exposure to the disease. The vaccines that are available include: Bordatella bronchiseptica (Kennel Cough), Leptospirosis, and Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme Disease).

Core Vaccinations
Rabies
The Rabies virus is transmitted by the bite of an infected animal, most commonly bats, raccoons, skunks, and foxes. It causes a fatal brain and spinal cord infection, and signs of disease can vary from depression and dementia to aggressiveness. The virus can be shed for up to 14 days before signs of infection are apparent. The virus can be shed by the infected animal for a variable length of time, ranging from days to months. This disease is not only fatal to the infected animal, but is a considerable public health issue because it can be transmitted in the same manner to humans. Vaccination against Rabies is generally required by law, and is done once at 16 weeks of age and then boostered once a year. Depending on public health regulations, new three-year vaccines may now be used by your veterinarian.

Canine Distemper Virus
Distemper in dogs was once very common, but thanks to widespread vaccination, has now become quite rare and almost unheard of in vaccinated dogs. This virus affects multiple organ systems and can involve the brain. Again, signs of infection can vary and include discharge from the eyes and nose, coughing, vomiting, and diarrhea; neurological signs soon follow, progressing to trouble walking and seizures. Treatment is usually futile and the prognosis for survival is poor, which is why vaccination against this disease is so important. This vaccine is given at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, and then boostered once a year from then on.

Adenovirus Type 2
Canine Adenovirus Type 2 is a component of a syndrome known as Kennel Cough, characterized by a hacking cough, wheezing, and difficulty breathing. This vaccine also protects against Infectious Canine Hepatitis, an often acutely fatal disease that causes destruction of the liver. This vaccine is given to puppies along with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, and then boostered yearly.

Parainfluenza
This virus causes a respiratory infection known as Canine Infectious Tracheobronchitis, and is another major component of Kennel Cough. It is acquired by close contact with other infected dogs, most commonly at boarding facilities, dog parks, and puppy classes. Signs to watch for include: coughing, gagging, and retching. This vaccine is given in combination with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, and then boostered once a year from then on.

Canine Parvovirus
Canine Parvoviral Enteritis is a serious and not uncommon disease in unvaccinated puppies. The virus destroys the cells in the intestines, causing vomiting, diarrhea, and intestinal bleeding. Immune suppression can also result when the virus infects the bone marrow. For some unknown reason, there is evidence that Doberman Pinchers, Rottweilers, Pit Bulls, and Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to infection. The virus persists for a long time in its environment, and thrives in unsanitary conditions. The vaccine for Canine Parvovirus is given to puppies in combination with the other core vaccines at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, and then once yearly.

Non-Core Vaccinations
Bordatella bronchiseptica (Kennel Cough)
Bordatella is another component of the syndrome known as Kennel Cough, and should be administered to high risk dogs. This consists of dogs being boarded or attending puppy classes, and many facilities now require vaccination before the dog can be admitted. The vaccine can be given via a squirt in the nose or injected under the skin, and yearly boosters are recommended to maintain immunity.

Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is a re-emerging disease of great importance in both rural and urban areas. It thrives when the climate is warm and moist, and as a result, is most common in the spring and fall. It is spread by contact with urine from infected “host species”, which can include: raccoons, skunks, mice, voles, cattle, and pigs. Dogs can come into contact with contaminated urine in their environment in the form of water dishes, shallow ponds or puddles. The disease can range from mild to fatal, often causing severe kidney failure and liver disease. Furthermore, the organism is transmissible to humans, and care must be taken to ensure all areas of possible contamination be disinfected. Vaccination for dogs with potential exposure is recommended because of the serious illness associated with this disease.

Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme Disease)
Lyme Disease is transmitted by the Deer Tick (Ixodes scapularis) that carries the organism in endemic areas. Signs of disease include arthritis, enlarged lymph nodes, and fever. Behavrioural changes and neurological signs may also be observed, including seizures. Consult your veterinarian to find out if Lyme Disease is important in your area, or if you are traveling to an endemic area with your dog.

Inappropriate Elimination in Dogs - Urination

Dog Urinating in the House

One of pet owners’ greatest frustrations is inappropriate elimination in the house. When the beloved family dog starts to use the living room as his own personal restroom, owners are understandably distraught. Aside from the monetary and time costs of cleaning up the mess left by their dog, the most serious cost can be to the relationship between pet and master. Unable to understand, and therefore cope with, the reasons underlying a pet’s continued housesoiling, some owners choose to give up their animal altogether. This scenario is unfortunate, and

often unnecessary, considering that the behaviour is one that is easier to manage than most owners think.

The first thing that dog owners must understand is that there are many causes of inappropriate urination in the dog. Pinning down the cause is often half the battle, since identifying the problem helps us to select the appropriate treatment and greatly increase the odds of its success.

What would cause a mature dog to urinate in the home despite being given ample opportunity to do so outside? There are medical reasons and behavioural ones, and any vet will tell you that distinguishing between the two is crucial and often dictates the type and success of treatment.


Medical Causes

There are many diseases, especially in older animals, that may manifest themselves as housesoiling. Many geriatric dogs drink and urinate significantly more than usual – something your vet may refer to as “PU/PD”, or “polyuria/polydipsia” – as a result of kidney disease, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, and others. This is why it is important to mention significant increases in your pet’s water consumption to your vet. Dogs needing to relieve themselves more frequently than usual may in fact be suffering from bladder infections, prostate problems, or even tumours of the urinary tract. Incontinence is another culprit. Incontinence can result from neurological dysfunction or decreased urinary sphincter function. Also, geriatric pets may urinate in the home as their cognitive function and awareness of their surroundings declines.

A thorough history, including details about the volume, frequency, and colour of urination can help point your vet in the right direction. In addition, a laboratory analysis of your pet’s urine sample – or urinalysis – with or without simple bloodwork, can be invaluable. Often times, what appeared to be a behavioural problem turns out to have a medical basis, and can then be treated accordingly. Lab tests available through your vet not only rule out behavioural causes, but can help to narrow down the possible medical causes.

Treatment for medical causes of inappropriate elimination very much depends on the cause and the individual patient. Talk to your veterinarian.

Behavioural Causes

In puppies and young dogs, peeing in the house most often stems from insufficient housebreaking training. Urination in response to excitement or as a show of submission to other dogs or people is also common.

Separation anxiety can be an underlying cause of inappropriate elimination. Dogs that are highly bonded with their owners may become distressed by their absence, particularly if the owner has recently had longer periods away from home than usual. Older dogs are especially prone to experience this. Dogs with separation anxiety often show behavioural changes in response to cues of their masters’ impending exit, such as jingling keys or putting on a coat. During and after this time, they will express their upset with signs of overt agitation and restlessness (vocalization, pacing) or with depression (decreased willingness to get up or eat).

The cornerstones of managing separation anxiety include increasing daily exercise (to tire your pet out in advance), desensitizing your pet to your exit routine, and slowly letting pets get used to your absence in small, rather than large or sudden, increments. Leaving dogs with chew toys, other pets, or simply leaving the TV on for them, will help to divert attention away from your absence. In severe cases, a vet may prescribe dog-specific sedatives.

Marking, or urinating small amounts on upright objects, is a behaviour that is likely familiar to the owners of unneutered male dogs. Everyone has seen a male dog lift its leg on a fire hydrant outside, but problems arise when your good loveseat becomes the stand-in. Marking indoors is often the result of territorial instincts being triggered. Watching through the living room window as a strange dog or person approaches or even walks past the house can lead a motivate a male dog to mark his home turf – literally.

Neutering intact males stops marking in over half of these dogs. Another option is to minimize the stimuli leading to marking by keeping pets away from windows, so passersby stay out of their line of sight. Redirecting the marking behaviour toward an upright stake outdoors, and rewarding urination at this appropriate site with food or praise, is also a strategy that some owners find helpful.

The Bottom Line

In summary, owners don’t need to wring their hands when faced with urination in the house. A thorough history, physical exam, and urine tests performed by your vet will help distinguish medical from behavioural roots of the problem, and help tailor a treatment to your pet accordingly. Armed with an understanding of the cause of the problem, a treatment strategy, and a little patience, the family living room no longer has to double as your dog’s restroom.